Important remarks: Thorough drilling hole cleaning so that the installed chemical and mechanical anchors achieve their guaranteed load-bearing capacities. The climbers then mounted two different hook systems. On the one hand, adhesive hooks (also known as Bühler hooks) were used together with the FIS V 300 T injection mortar. “The composite system is firmly connected to the rock wall and achieves a permanently secure hold,” says Bernd Wetzel. For installation, the climbers injected the fish injection mortar FIS V 300 T into the borehole using the associated fish extrusion device, screwed the hooks into it and spread the swelling residual mortar. After its curing time, the composite system is fully load-bearing and achieves permanently high load-bearing capacities.
To ensure safety in the mountains, high-quality products such as those of the Fischer Group are essential when setting up climbing routes
In addition to the adhesive hooks, so-called drilling hooks were also installed in the rock walls. The fisher FAZ II bolt anchors made of stainless steel (R) in 10 x 80 mm were used. With these mechanical dowels, the climbers anchored the 10 mm drill hook tabs securely and firmly in the rock walls. “Our Fischer FAZ II bolt anchors reliably transfer very heavy loads into the load-bearing base,” emphasises Bernd Wetzel.
Once the drill hole has been created and cleaned, it can be either pre-assembled or pushed through. When the nut is tightened, the conical bolt is pulled into the expansion clip and tensions it against the hole wall. As soon as the specified torque is reached, the anchor is securely seated and can be loaded immediately. Very heavy forces acting on the drill hook are reliably transferred to the load-bearing surface by the FAZ II bolt anchor. The experts at JDAV also mounted chain stands with rings or even carabiners as deflectors. They are used at the end of the route to deflect the rope and lower the climber again.